lime

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i've been battling this wrinkling phenomenon for weeks. it shows up at random, and i can't figure out what i'm doing wrong. i've changed layer height. i've checked the z-offset of the extruder. i've lowered acceleration to 1/10th of normal. i've lowered the flow rate. i've raised the flow rate. i've cleaned the plate with soapy water and IPA. i've checked for bumps on plate and the bed. i've flipped the plate over. i've done automatic and manual levelling. i've redone the bed compensation calibration like twelve times. i've moved and rotated my print. i've tried different colours, materials and makes. i've dried the filaments to under 10% humidity. i've switched extruders. i've placed the printer on a mass damper (a 25kg slab of concrete on top of a 2cm thick rubber granule mat). the last thing i did was physically holding on to the extruder as it moved (that's what that thicker band in the top left is).

this can happen no matter how far along the print i am. it can be fine for the first 300 layers, then start happening on layer 320 and be so serious that the extruder hits the wrinkles and loses its place on layer 330. i've been sitting there staring at the printer as it does it and the filament just seems to... come out like that. it doesn't expand or anything. and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. the only common denominator is that all the prints that it happens on have large horizontal planes.

i don't think this is caused by overextrusion of the first layer, partly because it never happens on the first layer, and partially because i did a bed adhesion test:

yeah adhesion is awful here. i forgot to actually clean the plate this time. but the part in the middle is the only one that matters, and that is clean. if anything that looks like underextrusion. i just don't understand. i think i need professional help. first from the 3d printing community, then from a therapist.

here's my bed compensation matrix, for reference:

i've started printing in petg with pla supports since the support surface finish is so good, but whenever i print round things with tree supports i see what looks like layer shifts. since my printer is a corexy toolchanger and not a bedslinger this behaviour has confounded me until today, when i happened to look at the right time. it seems that the layers of the perimeter are not adhering properly, and as the filament cools it contracts, catches on support material, and pulls the entire ring off of the pla supports. meanwhile on the middle part i see no issues at all.

i don't even know what to call this problem. it's not stringing, it's already extruded plastic that does it. layer adhesion issues maybe? the photo up top is a reconstruction of how this print looked on the bed, since it fell apart the moment i flexed the buildplate.

here's a look at the underside of the pieces:

and a closeup of the round part:

as far as i can tell, that's pretty much perfect before it falls apart.

i can still print with the "normal" supports because they come up the sides of the circle, but it feels like a waste of filament. any ideas?

i think i know why this is happening: someone has made an assumption about aspect ratios. my phone is tall and narrow, so anything locked to 16:9 will be stretched or have gaps.

Note: the original thread title was "how do i fix overextrusion on infill in orcaslicer?". we've since deduced that's not what's happening. i'm leaving the rest of the op as is so you can follow the process.

So i'm doing a test print for a hot wheels track i'm making for a friend's kid on my snapmaker u1, and i'm hearing scraping noises. when i look at the in-progress print, i see this horribly mangled infill. obviously the nozzle is hitting the previous layer, right? so that's overextrusion, i think. too much material. but i let the print run, thinking maybe ironing will save it. but the surface finish is absolutely awful. all of the bumps and ridges of the infill pattern transfer up through the solid layers. not to mention now there's ringing from the nozzle hitting the bumps, so there's even more bumps. bummer.

also yes i fucked up the overhangs by trying to cheap out on supports. at least that one i know how to fix.

so, how do i deal with this? snapmaker ships a specialized version of orcaslicer (it's called snapmaker orca, it's on github) to deal with the u1s four separate print heads, and as far as i can tell there's no setting in there for infill flow? should i just try to slow everything down? i thought it might be vibration-related so i added a 20kg concrete slab and a thick anti-vibration rubber mat to the setup but nothing changed. i also dried the filament out for six hours. the hygrometer in the snapdryer got down to 12% i think.

i'd hate to not be able to print this for the kid, it's such a cool plaything.

Edit: to clarify, the grey filament is snapmaker matte PLA. the spool has an rfid chip in it so i've not changed any settings, the printer just detects it and sends it to orca.

Edit 2: i've done another test using gyroid infill and a lower flow rate, as recommended in the thread, but the surface finish is all bubbly. i cut a part out to check if the infill was the problem but it looks fine, while the surface is fucked. this is after ironing, by the way.

Edit 3: okay, i've now dried the spool out overnight and made a test disk with tweaked parameters, and i'm still seeing bubbles on top. here i increased the ironing flow from 8% to 20% so the surface is a lot smoother, but the bubbles are still visible. also getting some weird blobs on the side? could be related to the ironing. the middle circle is for a multicolor test but the dot was so small that the filament amount came out to 0.00 grams and the printer didn't really know what to do. it just put in a single dot of (the wrong) filament and avoided the area.

the changed parameters are

• flow ratio: 0.95 -> 1
• nozzle temp: 215C -> 220C
• max volumetric speed: 22mm^3^/s -> 15mm^3^/s
• seam position: nearest -> random
• scarf joint: off -> contour and hole
• ironing flow: 8% -> 20%
• infill: gyroid 15% -> TPMS-D 10%
• infill combination: off -> on, 80%

when reading through the jellyfin with chromecast guide i realized that it would probably be less effort to just let the casting api be public, with the added bonus that i could then cast my library to any device that supports it. but that seems like it would paint a giant target on the server.

what's the recommended way of doing stuff like this? ideally i want to be able to go to someone's house and just play some of my media on their tv.

not that any of this is doable in the near future, since i'm behind cgnat and won't get my colocated bounce server up until spring.

hej feddit,

vi verkar ha rätt tajta begränsningar när det kommer till bilder? många poster från andra instanser som bara består av bilder är ofta helt tomma när man ser dem härifrån. ser även att detta gäller bilder som inkluderas direkt i markdown, eftersom de hamnar bakom en lokal image_proxy-url som gör nån slags validering.

reagerade på detta efter att jag gjorde en gif-reply och inte såg bilden, och när jag gick till den genererade urlen (som var typ feddit/api/image_proxy?src=blablabla) så fick jag tillbaka en json-blobba med felmeddelandet "too wide". bilden i fråga är 300 pixlar bred så det känns extremt snålt, speciellt med tanke på att källan var en direktlänk till tenor...

är detta med flit? finns det en god anledning bakom som jag inte förstår i och med att jag inte kollat upp implementationen?

cross-posted from: https://feddit.nu/post/13151937

ringtones were big there for a while, but now it seems everyone just leaves them on default.

ringtones were big there for a while, but now it seems everyone just leaves them on default.