3DPrinting

I'm currently looking into upgrading one of my old printers with a filament cutter since filament ramming gives me headaches. It's supposed to be controlled by the printer but I don't find a clear answer what kind of servo or actuator to best use (which is both lightweight but also strong enough). I still have some servo pins available on my board, no stepper though.

Can someone give me a hint what to look for?

Since people wanted to see how it turned out. This is a 330x330 object that covers the entire purported print area of my machine.

I'm ashamed to admit that I undershot my filament usage calculation slightly, and I chickened out just before the finish line. I didn't have any more white in stock, so I switched to some grey of the same type from the same manufacturer by doing a mid-air refuel, shoving the end of the new spool in chasing behind the very tail of the old one. I don't think it looks too bad. I may just spraypaint the entire thing white later anyhow. I wanted to use a light color in order to more easily spot and keep track of screws and springs and such.

I'm working on a Project that Prominently Features a Red PETG Top Surface that after the Printing is done gets Sanded with Grits from 400-2000 +Heat Treatment.

There is a Big Issue tho, After the Sanding is done, I can Rather Prominently see the Walls and Infill of the Layers Below. At first I suspected that I just sanded too much and that the internals weren't really filled in 100% as they should, but after some testing and Closer Inspection, it just seems the Red PETG is just Transparent enough that I can see the layer below...

So how do I stop this from Happening? Thus Far I played around with Fan Speeds, Nozzle Temps (±10°C), Layer Hight and Ironing all Solid Layers with Mixed Success, non Satisfactory enough however...

A friend gave me this Prusa MK3S+ a few years ago and it came inside a set of Besta storage cabinets, 2x 40cm deep ones. Its was always a bit unwieldy in my small apartment and since it was on the ground, I have to always bend down to do anything.

I'd been searching for decent options for a while and it seemed like the cabinet I really wanted was only available at IKEA USA. I'm in Canada so I decided to get a bit creative.

This cabinet is 60cm deep and 2 units tall. I joined a 20cm and 40cm Besta for both levels, but offset the joint. Top is 20+40, bottom is 40+20 (when looking from the front). That really helped with rigidity and then adding some plates across joints at top and bottom.

The side vents to the window, which, if I'd measured right the first time would have been 1 hole instead of 2, but its not visible so, meh.

I'm incredibly happy with how this turned out. My next step is a rubber pad to sit the printer on and then adding so of the vehicle sounds dampener to it as I've seen someone else do. Though, truthfully, even the cut up yoga mat under it has made a massive difference.

So I wanted a bag which glows. This lead me down a weird rabbit hole that ended up with 3D printing TPU on top of cloth with a hole cut out of it.

The process was fun and it came close to the original design. Though I would made a lot of changes if I was to make this again.

I also made a TPU foam insert for the strap. Worked well.

Edit: more photos of the bag

Oh, I'm a-doin' it.

This part is actually slightly outside the "safe print zone" dashed lines on my build plate. I put down like half a can of hairspray on it right before the nozzle descended. Wish me luck.

This took forever to get right, but all my filament dryboxes are at 10% and I can’t get it any lower.

Hi :)

given that the resin for SLA printing is pretty toxic, would you say that a ring, which is made with this material is save to wear (after washing and curing)?

FWIW

I have an Ankermake M5 that I hadn't used in a while and recently got back to printing some stuff. I had a few prints come out well but then turned my extruder into a giant glob of melted plastic on an overnight print. I ended up just replacing the whole extruder as there's been some revisions and I figured it would be nice to upgrade, and replace the v-wheels and all that.

The new extruder initially had a ton of problems with stringing, but increasing retraction fixed it. The problem that I can't seem to figure out is curved surfaces are now sort of wavy. It's regular - turning into vertical peaks and valleys. I'm doing a print currently with the speed turned way down, but the issue persists.

Any ideas?

edit: After some trial and error, I figured out that it was a slicer issue. I was using the EufyMake slicer because that one can send jobs to the printer directly. When I resliced in Prussa, the issue disappeared.

Hey guys, Any help trying to identify what is wrong with this one?

The first layer was pretty flawless except for the top-right side, where it looked kind of grainy. Maybe the plate needed cleaning on that side, but generally the adhesion is solid.

I was away while the second layer was printing, but apparently it failed and it looks like shit. When I got back, it was air-printing, still on the second layer as far as I can tell. However it seems like the nozzle was causing some of the artifacts to form, like maybe it was hitting the first layer or something? I am not sure.

This is on a Bambu A1 mini, with Bambu matte filaments. It is on a brand-new 0.2 nozzle, first print just out of the package. And the reason I got the nozzle was that I had some maybe similar failures before, where my previous nozzle seemed like was showing signs of clogging - i tried some cold and hot pulls, I could do some prints but some where failing so I thought to take this part out of the equation.

Any ideas what maybe could have caused something like this? The filament? I had tried drying it a while ago i believe, I can try again and I got a brand new one as well, but I wouldn't believe so because the first layer seems pretty good at the beginning. Could the plate maybe being dirty have caused buildup of crap on the nozzle and lead to a failure? Could it be something I can try maybe with the Z axis (although I have no experience with this? I did another calibration now though). I had read about AMS tubes as potential reason, but not sure how to tell. Any ideas what to check?

For reference I am trying to print something similar to this in different colors. I have already done 4 prints in other colors successfully.

https://i.imgur.com/0gI7W3z.jpeg

For maximum stiffness, I printed these without infill, all perimeters. The filament is Greentec Pro CF.

I got the general specifications from the book "Mastering the sound of the acoustic guitar" by Giuliano Nicoletti.

These are mainly for playing a test tone and generating chladny patterns at different stages of guitar making, but they also sound surprisingly good as desktop speakers!

Note: the original thread title was "how do i fix overextrusion on infill in orcaslicer?". we've since deduced that's not what's happening. i'm leaving the rest of the op as is so you can follow the process.

So i'm doing a test print for a hot wheels track i'm making for a friend's kid on my snapmaker u1, and i'm hearing scraping noises. when i look at the in-progress print, i see this horribly mangled infill. obviously the nozzle is hitting the previous layer, right? so that's overextrusion, i think. too much material. but i let the print run, thinking maybe ironing will save it. but the surface finish is absolutely awful. all of the bumps and ridges of the infill pattern transfer up through the solid layers. not to mention now there's ringing from the nozzle hitting the bumps, so there's even more bumps. bummer.

also yes i fucked up the overhangs by trying to cheap out on supports. at least that one i know how to fix.

so, how do i deal with this? snapmaker ships a specialized version of orcaslicer (it's called snapmaker orca, it's on github) to deal with the u1s four separate print heads, and as far as i can tell there's no setting in there for infill flow? should i just try to slow everything down? i thought it might be vibration-related so i added a 20kg concrete slab and a thick anti-vibration rubber mat to the setup but nothing changed. i also dried the filament out for six hours. the hygrometer in the snapdryer got down to 12% i think.

i'd hate to not be able to print this for the kid, it's such a cool plaything.

Edit: to clarify, the grey filament is snapmaker matte PLA. the spool has an rfid chip in it so i've not changed any settings, the printer just detects it and sends it to orca.

Edit 2: i've done another test using gyroid infill and a lower flow rate, as recommended in the thread, but the surface finish is all bubbly. i cut a part out to check if the infill was the problem but it looks fine, while the surface is fucked. this is after ironing, by the way.

Edit 3: okay, i've now dried the spool out overnight and made a test disk with tweaked parameters, and i'm still seeing bubbles on top. here i increased the ironing flow from 8% to 20% so the surface is a lot smoother, but the bubbles are still visible. also getting some weird blobs on the side? could be related to the ironing. the middle circle is for a multicolor test but the dot was so small that the filament amount came out to 0.00 grams and the printer didn't really know what to do. it just put in a single dot of (the wrong) filament and avoided the area.

the changed parameters are

• flow ratio: 0.95 -> 1
• nozzle temp: 215C -> 220C
• max volumetric speed: 22mm^3^/s -> 15mm^3^/s
• seam position: nearest -> random
• scarf joint: off -> contour and hole
• ironing flow: 8% -> 20%
• infill: gyroid 15% -> TPMS-D 10%
• infill combination: off -> on, 80%

I've been given some linear rails, and the only thing I can think to do with them is build a large format 3d printer. I have two 750mm and two 670mm rails, two carriages each.

I know there are several open-source plans for printers, and I could use a cool project to work on. I already have a smaller printer to work with so I can already make a lot of the parts.

Has anyone done this before? What printer did you build, and do you have any recommendations and things to look out for?

Get it while it's hot! New goodies to use and an improved UI for users.

360° camera owners know how insanely delicate the lenses are. This is a 3D-printed cover to protect the lenses of a Ricoh Theta X camera, a base to bolt onto something heavy to create a stable stand and a variant to mount on a selfie stick.

Despite the tech-cool factor of the project, Tom's Hardware does not condone making your own weapons system at home.

I wanted to make dumb merch for my dumb game to see if I could. Turns out I can, and the next time they'll be better. I think they turned out great!

So I've been Looking into getting myself a Prusa for a while now, Namely as a Backup for my Lemony ol P1S. One of the Issues thats been particularly bad on that Machine are VFAs, so thats something I Largly wanna Mitigate with my Next Machine...

So how are your Folks Prusa MK4S's, Core One's and Core One L's doing when it comes to VFAs? I remember when the Core One Launched that it was a Major Issue, was it ever Improved upon?

I'm currently building a hobby workshop. Mainly for woodworking, but having a 3D printer seems to be a good add-on.

My workshop is unheated and can't be fully closed, so Its dry but humidity will come in and it can get cold during winter (-5°C coldest, freezing is rare).

I don't need to print under those conditions but storing the printer without damage would be necessary. Is this possible or rather not advisable?

Edit: Thx for all the answers, you are great!

Credit to Pi-thon from DaveMakesStuff on thingiverse.