Mr_Mofu

joined 2 years ago
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[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 3 days ago (1 children)

Yes, top layer is set to 5 layers yet it only does 1 Top Layer since thats the surface. Rest is handled as Infill.

I tried everything from 1-100 Top Layers, nothing changes. Insides still get printed as Regular Infill.

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 2 points 3 days ago (3 children)

So No matter what I try, It only does Infill before 1 Layer of Top Surface. No settings seem to trigger anything else. Even putting infill at 0% makes it just hollow instead of producing more Top Surface Layers...

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 5 points 3 days ago

Lmao Nah. That Guys threats hit me as little as whenever Putin threatens nukes. Not gonna happen

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 3 points 3 days ago

Hm I see, ill give it a shot thanks!

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 3 points 3 days ago

The Infill is 100% for the entire Object. Yeah it is a Multifilament system swapping once between black and red PETG

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 2 points 3 days ago (6 children)

The Infill is at 100% for the entire Objekt

 

I'm working on a Project that Prominently Features a Red PETG Top Surface that after the Printing is done gets Sanded with Grits from 400-2000 +Heat Treatment.

There is a Big Issue tho, After the Sanding is done, I can Rather Prominently see the Walls and Infill of the Layers Below. At first I suspected that I just sanded too much and that the internals weren't really filled in 100% as they should, but after some testing and Closer Inspection, it just seems the Red PETG is just Transparent enough that I can see the layer below...

So how do I stop this from Happening? Thus Far I played around with Fan Speeds, Nozzle Temps (±10°C), Layer Hight and Ironing all Solid Layers with Mixed Success, non Satisfactory enough however...

 

So I've been Looking into getting myself a Prusa for a while now, Namely as a Backup for my Lemony ol P1S. One of the Issues thats been particularly bad on that Machine are VFAs, so thats something I Largly wanna Mitigate with my Next Machine...

So how are your Folks Prusa MK4S's, Core One's and Core One L's doing when it comes to VFAs? I remember when the Core One Launched that it was a Major Issue, was it ever Improved upon?

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Android 16, One UI 8

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 1 month ago (3 children)

Most I can find the there is the before mentioned Private Folder?

 

I've been wanting to Curb my Doom Scrolling Habits as of Recent as I've been wasting waaaay to much time opening the Same Apps 5 Times in 10 Minutes.

One Method thats been Said to Work wonders in that Regard is to have Apps only be accessible after typing in a Password. After doing a bit of Light research it seems I'll need an App for this as I don't wanna deal with Samsungs "Safe Folder" needing a Samsung Account stuff.

Do any of you have Suggestions for Trust Worthy Apps for this?

 

I've been wanting to Curb my Doom Scrolling Habits as of Recent as I've been wasting waaaay to much time opening the Same Apps 5 Times in 10 Minutes.

One Method thats been Said to Work wonders in that Regard is to have Apps only be accessible after typing in a Password. After doing a bit of Light research it seems I'll need an App for this as I don't wanna deal with Samsungs "Safe Folder" needing a Samsung Account stuff.

Do any of you have Suggestions for Trust Worthy Apps for this?

 

I've been looking to Replace my 2/3 Way Car Speaker System! Pillar Tweeters, Midrange for Front door Pannels and Subswoofers for the Back Doors and I've been wondering what europe has to Offer in that Regard, given the Popularity of things like the US Based JBL?

 

Been thinking quite a bit on the Topic of what Doctor Who Episode would be the best one to show to People who have never watched the Series.

Previously my personal Pick has always been the 2006 X-Mas Special "The Runaway Bride" for both Showing some good Action, Humour, Doctor Whoisms and even the Darker theme of the 10th Era, all in a Massively Entertaining Package!

But I'm really curious, what would you Pick to show your Friends?

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 0 points 1 month ago

I was born After 2000s and yeah I love Retro Computing! Before I really got into the Looks and aesthetics of Retro Computers Like the Commodore PET, so when I saw one in an Auction for surprisingly Little Money I took a Bid on it, thinking I'd get outbid anyway... I didn't!

Once I had this Massive Historic Machine in front of me, my Passion was set in stone. I got into History Videos and Technical Analysis of Old Hardware and got a Small Collection together!

Due to Budgetary issues as of recent I've had to Cool on this Hobby of mine tho. Hope I get to expand my Collection with an Amiga or any of the Atari Systems later this year hopefully!

 

I've been looking into getting myself a Complete Physical Collection of Doctor Who and while everything 11th and Onwords I'll Likely go with Bluray for the Better Quality, I'm not sure about 9-10?

I did Originally Watch Those on TV Back in the Day, Noting that the Quality most Certainly wasn't even near HD. So I can't help but wonder if those Series where even made in HD in the First Place? If they weren't HD I may as well go with the Cheaper DVDs...

What do you Folks think?

 

Continuation from this Post: https://lemmy.blahaj.zone/post/36954883

After many of you Suggested that Heat could be a Potential Solution to Regaining Sanded PETG Colour, I got myself a Heatgun Capable of 600c°.

While it did Improve the Colouring, Especially for Darker parts it wasn't Enough. To be a bit more Specific, Both Green and Yellow Parts Fully did regain the Colour Red Improved a Lot, but not quite Satisfactory And Black did make a Difference, but its not Nearly Close enough, being a Matte Dark Gray instead of... Black

I've noticed that the Black only did regain its true Colour once actively Melting and Warping which doesn't help... Otherwise its a Light/Dark Gray Matte Black.

So I think the Heatgun Method doesn't quite hold for Dark Parts. What other Methods of Regaining Colour are there?

I do still have MEK that I could Try. I also Heard that Clearcoat could Work and that there are 3D Printing Specific Brands, should I give that a Shot?

 

With AI Poisoning/Protection of any Kind, Its always Important to stay up to Date as LLMs Continue to Evolve. With things like Glaze having been Last Updated in June 2024 and its Poison getting less and less Effective, to the point its Pretty much Useless now, Its time to look for a Modern Alternative!

I know back a year ago there where Talks about Forking Glaze and Nightshade for something new and more potent, did anything ever get out of that?

A lil Surface look showed me this Project: https://severian-poisonous-shield-for-images.static.hf.space/index.html

Did any of you use it before?

 

With AI Poisoning/Protection of any Kind, Its always Important to stay up to Date as LLMs Continue to Evolve. With things like Glaze having been Last Updated in June 2024 and its Poison getting less and less Effective, to the point its Pretty much Useless now, Its time to look for a Modern Alternative!

I know back a year ago there where Talks about Forking Glaze and Nightshade for something new and more potent, did anything ever get out of that?

A lil Surface look showed me this Project: https://severian-poisonous-shield-for-images.static.hf.space/index.html

Did any of you use it before?

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 2 months ago

I mean it wasn't boiling which I thought was the issue. The setup I got rn is a Very Solid glass Jar that was fully Sealed and heated to around 50°C on my Printer bed. Left my Prints in there for between 30 Minutes to a Whole day, and while it was a lot shinier afterwards, no changes in the lines or or layers where to be seen.

Safety wise I got a Gas Mask, Fitting Clothes and some other Saftey stuff around

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 2 points 2 months ago

Hmmm my Heatbed goes to 100°c and I do have a Smooth surface plate around... what do you think?

[–] Mr_Mofu@lemmy.blahaj.zone 2 points 2 months ago (1 children)

I have tried using a Regular Soldering Iron to smooth out the surfaces, to not a lotta luck tho. At what temps can the Plastic Colouring be regained? Because I think I had mine set too high

 

After Having experimented in Making Perfectly Smooth Surfaces for about a Year now within the Print Process itself, Its time I Capitulate and start putting in some more Work and Sand it all smooth!

Just a bit of an Issue... Whenever I sand Coloured PETG, it looses its Colour and turns into that Broken Plastic White.

As someone who hasn't had to Fix something like that before, I'm not sure where to even start Fixing this? Can it be Avoided in the Sanding Process, or can the Colour be Regained afterwards?

I have heard of People Treating it with Heat and Vasaline to get the Colour Back, what kind of Methods do you all use and how reliable are they?

 

Just Remembered that I still have my old Twitter Account I abandoned a Year Ago. I Think its high time I delete it Fully! But since i have Posts on it dating back to 2016, I wanna back it all up Properly!

So I was wondering if any of you have good Programs/Projects that can do this kind of thing that you Trust?

Thanks!

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