A community about FPV drones/wings/planes, freestyle, racing, etc.

As the title says I’ve wanted to get into drones for some time and build my own. Recently figured I’d buy the controller and learn on sims first, but damn the controller seems so expensive since last time I checked.

I was told to go for the best for future proof and landed in TX16S Mark II Max Radio Controller (M2) but at £250 I don’t think I can justify that as the goggles will be expensive too although drone parts should be more reasonable. But what if I get bored etc.

I need a new Goggles for my analog whoops and I'm currently thinking about getting the HDZERO Goggles 2. The only disadvantages I see at the moment are the weight and the slow switching on process. Does anyone have experience with the HDZ 1 or 2?

I bought a Cetus X kit last October and an Air65 shortly after, since then I have flow about 1K packs and loved every one. Learning to fly smoothly and calmly was a huge challenge in the beginning so I am pretty satisfied with 45m/week of progress. This is the Air65 in my favorite park, though the Cetus X is a pretty good fit there as well.

See my previous post for more details on the drone I built.

I went for a first flight session. In my opinion it flew great, I didn't notice strong vibrations, the drone and props gave plenty power. Quite enjoyable. I tried 3.5X2X3, T3.5X2.5X3 and T3.5X3.5X3 props, they all worked great. I enjoyed the T3.5X3.5X3 most I think, simply because of the added speed and responsiveness.

I uploaded a video of a flight if you want to check it out.

I found the model of the frame online and really liked the look. I decided to make this my first quad build after only having flown the prebuilt BetaFPV Air 75.

After getting components and trying to mount them inside I encountered some issues. I tried editing the model of the frame, however, as there were only STL files available this was very tedious. Also the maker of the frame put a somewhat restrictive license on it. Now I want to design my own frame with the ability of a more clean layout for the components that I want. When that has happened I also want to make my design files available so that it can be adapted to others needs.

I did not get to fly it yet but am really looking forward to, probably this weekend. Also I learned a lot while building this, which will help me design a nicer frame. Am also happy to hear opinions on my build.

Here is a list of components:

• Frame: 3D Printable 3-inch Drone Frame
• Flight Controller - ESC stack: SpeedyBee F405 Mini BLS 35A 20x20 Stack
• Motors: T-Motor Pacer P1604 3800kv
• Props: HQProp T3.5X2.5X3
• VTX: HGLRC Zeus nano VTX
• Camera: CaddxFPV Ratel2

EDIT: Here is a follow up post, with a video of a flight.

And here are some more pictures.

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I was watching this video of a 3D printed VTOL airframe that they post on their sales page. It seems like it's unstable in flight with a lot of correction and wobbling. Maybe I just don't know what I'm looking at, I've only really had anything to do with quads but I want a long-flight autonomous unit for crop scouting, that can land like a quad and hover for pictures in certain spots when checking cows and water.

https://flightory.com/product/super-stingray-vtol/

Is this a problem with the airframe, the pilot, or am I just being overly critical? I don't care about the cost of the print files, I just don't want to spend a pile of time printing something and not get a useful product at the end.

Perhaps someone has a better suggestion for a reasonably priced airframe (prebuilt or printed) that can take a Pixhawk or other Ardupilot FC and give me 30-60 minutes of flight and 20km of range?

I was teaching someone to fly in a simulator (FPV SkyDive) and they were very confused by the way you turn. I certainly remember finding it unnatural, but now I'm used to it: With the drone pitched forward slightly for normal flight, you would coordinate a yaw right and roll right to make a smooth turn.

Is there a reason it's not set up so that pitch/roll attitude are maintained as you yaw? So if you're pitched forward 30 degrees and the horizon is level, when you yaw those both stay the same? Are there moves that are easier using the existing standard? Or on the other hand, are there folks who have changed their setup (either FC settings or tx mixes) for different behavior?

Thanks for any insights!

I'm having trouble with a couple scenarios where I want to zigzag. One of two gates that are slightly offset, another is approaching a gap where I'm not quite lined up right.

Coming from fixed wing, I would use rudder. But I'm not sure what the best movement is for a quad.

Would you start with yaw, and coordinate with a little roll, similar to a regular coordinated turn? Or just do a quick roll and back?

Thanks for any tips about how you'd accomplish the movement or practice it!

Hello guys!

I was wondering if anyone could help me building a 3S FPV quad from scratch. Originally I was looking forward to buy the Crux3 limited edition 2S DIY set, but I got my money refunded because it‘s not available anymore. Instead of getting any other 2S Quad that’s capable of carrying a RunCam Thumb, I was thinking about building a 3S from scratch, which I will take as an opportunity to learn more, and hopefully I will not fall down this rabbit hole and not fly anymore.

So yeah, main thing I want this to do is using the RunCam.

Anyway, I want her to be analog, ELRS, 3S; a big plus would be removable prop-guards.

Sadly, I have no idea what FC (or is it AIO FC?) to use, but I was thinking about the SpeedyBee F7 V3 FPV Flight Controller, since the description says 3S-6S - and it’s currently on sale.

Is it a good choice? Thanks in advance!

Got myself an tinyhawk 3 rtf and the drone as a loose cable should I be concerned or is it for another function of the drone?

Just getting into the hobby and got myself a Radiomaster Boxer transmitter. Did my own research and settled on Uncrashed due to the good graphics. Just curious what others are using.

First big building dive! Using a Mobula 6 (65mm tinywhoop). Micros are awesome!

Been flying this little guy for a few days. It really opens up new places to fly. It's so quiet and small, people don't really notice. No wonder these little whoops are so popular!

If you want to enter your account with an interest (for example FPV ;) ) in the fediverse directory at fediverse.info, it's quite easy. This makes it easier to find accounts with the same interest and continues to grow the FPV community in the Fediverse.

1. In your account, add #fpv and # fedi22 under Bio.
2. Wait 15 minutes
3. Open https://fediverse.info/explore/people
4. Click on [Add Account]
5. Enter your account url or webfinger address like https://pixelfed.de/stickbro or @stickbro@fpv.social

Using twin VAS Pepper boxes to look my coolest. I hope to do some mountain dives when the weather gets more ideal.

So far, I've only tested these at my work inside a metal building seeing how many walls it will go through. There's a big difference between the stock antennas and these.

What are your set ups?

hey everyone, I picked up a goggles x headset last year and have been itching to get a tinywhoop, but they're all analog. What have people been doing to solve this same problem?

One of the reasons I initially bought the goggles x was for all the A/V in/out options it seemed to have. But having puzzled over it for a while it doesn't seem to handle analogs modules nearly as neatly as the hd0 headset or really many of the options out there.

What do you think is the least kludgy way to add analog capabilities to my goggles x?

P.S. also while we're here, I impulsively picked up the speedybee analog receiver and I'd love to hear people's experiences with that too.

My 7" freestyle. TBS source one V3. T motor F90 running on 6s.

I don't have a 3D printer, but I have a wood shop, so I carved a mount for my analog adapter board + TBS Fusion to clip onto my Walksnail Goggles X strap. Works well so far!

It would have been easier to drill the holes for the side where the cords plug in before cutting out the interior. I ended up finishing the profile with a jigsaw, just going very slowly to avoid splitting off the side.

I used a scrap left over from turning a piece of birch.

#fpv #tinywhoop #whoopistheway

I have a Meteor 65 and 75 with SPI ELRS. This happened to both within a couple of months, wondering if anyone knows what is going on?

• I was flying around normally having fun
• I stopped to change batteries
• Put the new battery in and it only does the first 3 beeps
• There is no signal on the goggles
• Plug the flight controller into Betaflight and the VTX (I think) starts smoking

The first time this happened, I cleaned everything up and it started working again but with very poor VTX signal. So I replaced the VTX and shortly after the accelerometer or gyro went out forcing me to replace the flight controller.

Now this just happened again on a different Meteor and before I go through the same steps as last time I'm wondering if anyone has some advice. Thanks.

🚀 Map and Track Editor : Create and customize your own maps and tracks to challenge yourself and share with others. (Q2 2024)

🤝Shareable Drones : Share your drone setups with friends and the community. (Q3 2024)

🔧Physics Update (Q3 2024)