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Or would it need to have 1gpu for every 2 screens, meaning a 2gpu setup? Subsequently, would I also need to be running them on like a threadripper motherboard to avoid pcie down scaling each gpu to x8 each instead of x16?

All hypothetical so i apologive for not being able to provide actual specs. Im helping someone setup a mid-tier racing sim with 1 monitor so providing the actual specs Im using would be obsolete. We were just speculating what it would take to build a god-tier racing sim.

Also, I apologize if this isnt the correct community for this post. I didnt find anything when I tried searching different iterations of 'AskTechSupport.'

I saw it is basically superseeded by the vc-5080 and vc-5081, but I am not finding any good comparisons and don't know enough about this to understand the difference myself.

My usecases are basically checking whether my soldering is connected, whether some switch is working, whether a cable is broken (thus why I am looking for a analog ones: easier to see the needle changing) and sometimes some simple voltage and resistance checking. So as far as I can guess I can I don't need the precision which I would lack with a analog multimeter like that.

I saw an offer for a used vc-5070 for 25€ around where I live. It has the features I need: continuity-sound, exchangable Messleitungen/wires (I need clamps very often).

Good idea for my use case? Is a cheap new one better? Do older models have some quirks that make them difficult/dangerous to use for beginners like me?

I don't need much more than 100Mhz but I'd like to have serial/CAN decoding. I could probably get away with a 2 channel, but it seems like a lot of the extra features like wifi control and digital channels only come on the 4 channels like the 1204X-E, plus it has some waveform generation (though maybe that's an addon?).

Anyone have a budget model they'd recommend? The DS1504 seems like it's getting a bit long in the tooth and the price point doesn't really seem competitive with better scopes.

I tried to push that plastic tab part but it just snapped off. 🫠

I'm looking for a nice, one night project for a stem youth group I work with and the Cataractapult would be a nice change of pace. But...

1. I don't support his politics or views.
2. 15 USD a piece is too expensive for just bare pcbs.
3. They aren't available anymore anyway.

If I had the files, I could just get a small pile of them made, have one for every kid and have enough left over for the club sell for fund raising.

For reference, this is what the Cataractapult is.

https://aveworkshop.myshopify.com/products/cataractapult-model-9000-retina-remover

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSkLVv8q_rs

I have a HDMI breakout board for a cheap and cheerful projector in a Hush box with some automations (turn of fans, dim the lights and the like). This was great, as whenever we turned on the media player - magic!

However due to new HDCP requirements from my partner's favourite app, this solution will no longer work. I have found a HDMI splitter that sorts out the HDCP issue, but CEC traffic isn't passed through and I am at a bit of a loss. I had 2 thoughts:

• Open the splitter and wire the CEC lanes
• Listen to some of the other pins for Video output

I have no idea if either of those would work, has anyone had any experience with this, or got any advice?

I bought a 2nd-hand Lenovo USB-C PSU (ADLX65YLC3D) which indicates a range of voltages (20v, 15v, 9v, 5v) on the label. Tried to charge a few different bicycle lights but the charging indicators did not light up on any of them. I almost tossed it because the 2nd-hand market I bought from is definately dodgy. But then I tried to power a Rasberry Pi and it seems to work on that. So wtf? An a/c adapter either works or it doesn’t. What would cause this: works on some devices but not others? The Rasberry Pi needs 5v just as the bicycle lights. That is the default voltage for USB-c.

I bought a 2nd-hand (but new-in-box) Kenwood radio that requires USB-C @ 9 volt 1.5A. It did not come with the original charger, so I bought a separate universal USB-C charger (145 watt, full range of voltages incl. 9v 3A). The charger is not Kenwood, but it should work, no? Because we have standards, right?

I plugged it in and LCD was dead for like the first 45min. Then it started to show the 3-stage charging indicator. The device would never power on. I assumed it had to be well charged, but then saw in the manual that it’s expected to function while it charges. It never got fully charged and the display eventually simply went off.

Day 2:

I plugged it in again and it was again dead for like 30 min before it started charging for hours. LCD went off again. Never made charging progress and never powered on.

Day 3:

I plugged it in and the LCD was off, as usual. But this time it stayed off. It no longer shows a charging indicator even when plugged in overnight. I wonder if the charger killed the radio (or the internal battery).

I went to a retail shop that has the same model radio on display. The display model had no juice but I plugged it in and it instantly indicated it was charging and also instantly powered on. Then I noticed the stock factory PSU is strictly 9v. WTF?

Is that compliant? USB PD chargers are supposed to default to 5v until the device asks for more. There is a handshake process, per the spec.

So WTF is Kenwood doing making a USB-C PSU that is strictly 9v? Did they actually just hardwire a 9v PSU to USB-C connector and build a device that skips the USB PD handshake?

The manual says: only use the Kenwood PSU that is made for the device. When I read that shit, I thought: yeah yeah, the usual liability bullshit. They want us to be loyal and only use their products. But now I wonder if they did something seriously obscure to where it’s in fact true that only their 9v PSU will work -- and yet it does not seem to be sold separately.

I brought the dodgy radio into the store and plugged it into the Kenwood OEM PSU. It’s still dead, which I suppose is concrete proof that the radio is toast.

Merlin rollerdoor (Australian garage door brand) stopped working, when investigating I found a bug had shorted itself across an IC (labeled HVS004).

Luckily Merlin sells the whole replacement unit for only $449AUD. Before I pull the trigger on that I was wondering if anyone here could advise me on my chances of success if I just replaced the burnt bit.

I’m happy with larger electronics but I’m struggling to even identify any fuses on the board to check.

I’m also unable to find a replacement IC online as the code on it seems to be associated with some kind of blue LED. (I also don’t know for sure if the IC needs to be programmed or if it is just standard)

The back of the board is fine, just thru-hole solder connections.

here are some more photos(new link, should work now), hopefully in good quality.

Thanks in advance

First of all, I am really sorry if the topic of my question isn't suitable for this community, but I've been looking to find an answer to the following question: is there any way to make my Wacom Intuos Pro S drawing tablet (PTH-451) work on my MacBook (current macOS version is macOS Tahoe 26.3). I tried to fiddle around a little, but with no result whatsoever.🥱

More pictures:

, ,

I am looking for advice, on a thought I had. I wanted to combine a fairly simple phone (preferably non gogole) with a tablet for my daily use. I am ok with the tablet running Android, as I more or less am required to have it (or apple), for safe log in, in my country

The idea is, to not spend all the time death scrolling on the phone, and only bring up the tablet up when I need to use features that are not available on the phone. What I still was hopping for, was a phone with basic functions, like calling, SMS, mail and calendar. Also it should have a good camera, and some sort of privacy orientated navigation app. It should also have hotspot, so that I can connect the tablet to the internet through it. I wouldn't mind an e-ink display, but I am not sure how that works with a camera or if they even do come with quality cameras.

Do you think that you get more value for the money with a tablet, than a phone? Should I spend the equivalent to a flagship phone on a tablet, or would i be getting more value, by simply buying a phone, and dropping my plan on having a semi-dumb phone?

Hi! I recently purchased a nice gadget from AliExpress, this should be the circuit to drive an ultrasonic piezo. Silly me, I put the batteries backwards and the U1 component on the bottom left blew up.

I know a bit about circuits so I reverse engineered it (there might be mistakes), but I am not skilled enough to identify the component in order to look for a replacement. Can someone help me identify it? I can read ___22 on it.

Here's another version of the schematic, which might be easier to understand.

Thank you for your help!

EDIT: I couldn't identify the component, but I did a Google Image Search as suggested by @partial_accumen@lemmy.world and it found similar PCB designs. It very much looks like this component is part of the charging circuit, which I do not particularly care about. I will try desoldering it and see if the rest of the device still works. I will post the outcome here.

EDIT 2: with a lot of help from @jeinzi@discuss.tchncs.de I managed to fully reverse engineer it and fix most of the mistakes in the schematic. That component was just an FP6291 after all, part of a circuit to step up the 3V from two AA batteries to 5V required by the MCU. I replaced that whole section with a step up module I had previously purchased from AliExpress, and now everything works again.

Here's the final (mostly accurate, hopefully) revision of the schematic.

(link)

Lessons learned:

• Always double-check battery polarity
• In the age of AI, Google Image Search can now help identity circuits
• Sometimes a circuit that looks complex can actually be much simpler in the end
• AskElectronics@discuss.tchncs.de amazing community on Lemmy

That was fun! Thank you very much to everyone who contributed to this thread!

I bought a cheap Hantek 6022BE to learn with and I'm just trying to measure some voltage to check if it's accurate. I'm using openhantek6022 https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022 and also hscope on android. I'm measuring a 19v laptop power supply with the 10x setting on the probe and also a set of leads with a 20x attenuator. When I measure the power supply with my dmm I'm getting 19.22V with the scope I'm getting much higher or lower depending on where I set the voltage per division. Both programs have a calibration function which I did.

20x attenuator showing 19.6v

10x probe showing 20v

10x probe with 2v per division setting only showing 9.81V

Hscope showing 19.9v

I recently got a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W.

I'm hoping to set up a circuit (with attached solar panel and battery) to activate at regular intervals to preform a servo motor movement. I'm not sure how often I can make the activation, as I don't know the power draw of the board or movement, or how fast the solar panel will charge the battery. I hoping there is a way to measure the power draw of the board and attached circuit, along with the battery level, over an extended time frame and in an automated manner. Is this possible?

Thanks for your time.

Edit: Addional info:

• This would be likely a one off characterization.
• I would like time series data over several days or longer.

i am building a 3d printed Stargate with lights and sounds using a D1 mini and a DFPlayer mini. The code is from this github repo: (https://github.com/spradlinb/Stargate_3D). when i compile the code in the Arduino IDE i get a SPI error as depicted in the image. I've tried remapping the gpio pins with no success. what am i doing wrong? BTW here is a video of what i'm trying to build: https://youtu.be/y01J-hymaDs

Hey all. I'm looking into getting a small action cam type of camera. Primary purpose would be for travel and recording music playthrough videos at home. My wife would like something small and discreet that she can use to take short videos while traveling, but not make her look like an obnoxious vlogger. At the same time I'd like to use it in my home studio to make videos. Doesn't have to be 4k, 1080p would be fine if it doesn't meet the budget limit. I'm looking into something less than $200.

Anyone have suggestions?

I have a Logitech MX Anywhere 3 mouse. In the past, my main mouse buttons started getting unreliable. I ordered "gaming" high quality switches from AliExpress and had an electronics repair shop install them. They gave my mouse a new lease on life. Apparently they should last much longer than the original ones. So far, no issues.

But even back then, my middle click was starting to act a bit wonky. The technician cleaned out, but without parts, he couldn't do much else. It didn't help.

Now, a couple of years later, the middle click is getting really bad. Almost always either multi-clicks or doesn't click at all when pressed once.

My friend found what looks like an OEM Logitech replacement wheel. Here it is: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008242236011.html

But if it's the same, is it going to start dying again in less than two years?

Is there something I can do (or rather have done; I don't have the dexterity for soldering) to actually improve its durability?

By the way, the magnetic sometimes ratcheted, sometimes smooth scroll wheel is kinda important to me. So I want that feature to stay.

One last question: it's been maybe 4 or 5 years, not sure how long exactly. Should I get the battery replaced at the same time, while I'm paying for shipping and installation? The charge has been holding less and less, but it's not the end of the world yet. But should I expect it to get exponentially worse soon or something?

trying to save an old motherboard, it's a Gigabyte GA-B75M-D2V. tried searching, got nothing usable back.

problem: no USB ports work - all the ones on the back, both USB 2.0 and 3.0, and all front ports. USB ports not working is common accross boards and manufacturers, but it's usually a subset, some work some don't and you can still use the thing.

ports have 5V, when the keyboard gets connected its leds light up for a second but don't stay on. the mouse's led doesn't light up when connected. neither are detected by the UEFI setup.

I got a PCI-Express USB 3.0 card, but that thing doesn't work for booting off of it or in UEFI setup, etc., only after boot from HDD.

otherwise, everything works - LAN, sound, audio, SATA, etc. I feel the platform still has a lot of life left, especially for my use cases.

this is not a software or settings issue, that's why I'm in "ask electronics" something is fried here and was looking for pointers what or where to look at.

no visible burns or busted caps and such. hoping it's something simple, any ideas what to look at?

Got a new (to me) older audio stack. Not used to some of the earlier electronics conventions.

The system has two pronged cords, and has external grounding. How much danger am I looking at here? I'm not 100% certain how to use it properly.

7 Year old monitor started to have panel issues today, no initiating event. Did the normal trouble shooting, shut every component down, disconnected, swapped cables, updated firmware, changed resolutions, etc... issue persisted.

Took it apart to have a looksie

Getting all the plastic snaps off the back of the monitor was the single longest part of this... very annoying. I miss easy to repair devices.

The PSU has shorts!!

the other side of the pcb is a transformer

some other leaking seen as well

both sides of the PSU in full

the logic board looks fine

I'm tempted to just fix the shorted pads and test the voltages... I probably should replace the transformer

Lots of chatter on youtube about the thunderbolt ports dying on this monitor, but I don't think that is applicable to me. At least the PSU shouldn't look like this even if its not the core problem.

Any insights or suggestions from those you have rescued erstwhile monitors? This is the first monitor that has ever fully died on me. I melted a laptop screen sitting too close to a fire.. heh, but it was still usable.

I bought a 2nd-hand 12v 2A power supply without branding. I intend to use it on a DVD player. Coming from the street market makes it dicey because anything in that market could be from someone’s dumpster dive. To ensure it’s useable I used a DMM to measure the volts. It started at 18v but continued to gradually climb. When it passed the 20v scale on the DMM, it quit reading. So it would probably go even higher in the next scale.

I expect the voltage to be higher than rated because the 12v rating is expected to be a measurement under load. But my whole point is to check whether it is safe /before/ driving the appliance. Seems strange how the volt reading kept increasing. Is that expected? Is there another test I should do?

Update

It was a lousy DMM, apparently. I retested later (again with no load) and it started at 15v and climbed up from there. That was with a tiny pocket-sized DMM. Then I tried a “Rigid” true RMS meter which gave a steady 12v.

My drip maker shuts off. This is very frustrating, since no human should attempt the consumption of six cups of coffee within thirty minutes.

I'd like to get rid of this timer, but I can't see anything obvious on the board. Is it most likely to be in that little processor at the top left of the coated side?

lmao some of these replies are exactly the sort of thing you'd expect from reddit in like, 2011. For reference, even mildly scalded coffee tastes better than that instant shite, and I'm not drinking ut for taste.

I got a used ultrasonic cleaner with liquid damage for almost nothing and I am trying to repair it. So far I've confirmed that the board has a short circuit between live and neutral somewhere after the relay. Also, while reverse engineering it, I noticed something that seems weird. When the relay closes, it adds C3 in parallel to C2, both feeding the logic circuitry.