3D Printing

Looking for free 3d designing software, something easy and intuitive almost that functions like MS paint. Draw shapes the set dimensions. I've tried blender and haven't had luck being any good with it. Again just want to make some shapes set dimensions and then slice and print it

I'm pretty excited, I ordered the Kobra X, along with 9kg of various colour filaments.

I'm wondering if I'm missing some stuff like bed glue, a scraping tool or things I haven't even thought of. What do I need in preparation?

need to finish the build please help🙏

The Victoria Hand Project from Canada uses 3D printing to create affordable upper-limb prosthetic devices for around 150 USD, customized in just a few days. With its own software and a global network of clinics, prostheses are produced locally, for example in Ukraine and Africa. A key factor behind this success is the reliability and capabilities of the Original Prusa XL and other Prusa 3D printers, which enable fast and precise printing of parts and above-elbow sockets even in challenging conditions.

So the Bambu labs A1 looks like the perfect starting point.

One problem, it uses proprietary firmware and software, I'm a big advocate for owning the things you buy, and not supporting companies that don't allow you to do that as much as I reasonably can. So yea I can't buy Bambu.

The Creality SparkX i7 seems nice, it looks like a straight up clone of the A1
https://store.creality.com/eu/products/sparkx-i7-3d-printer

I've heard a lot of people complain about Creality though, so unsure. I'm a bit stuck and getting decision fatigue.

My budget is ~500 Euro.

Help.

I am the armorer for our VFW honor guard. We use M1 Garands for funeral services. I want to replace the buttplates with plastic, as when we are at attention, the steel buttplate is on the ground, and gets white shirts very dirty when we shoulder arms. Does anyone have a stl for a plastic buttplate?

Ive been looking for an AR folding stock adapter for my AR Pistol (PSA 300 Blk Out) and was wondering if anyone had a model for it like this one? Thanks so much, I am new here, so please go easy lol

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/176226

Is there any other variants or modifications anyone is familiar with? The most obvious iteration would be different calibers, alt designs (such as changing rachet arm spring retention from a post to a recess)

Hey,

im looking for a documentation explaining how exactly to build the Mac22. Normally i had good documentations to follow through, but with the Mac22 im kind of struggling, because even the exploded views dont show clearly what belongs where.

Thanks in advance!

I just got my first 3d printer a couple weeks ago and I'm struggling to find a handguard design for my new Henry Model X. Does anyone have a file you can direct me toward? Or any design experts that want to make one? I'm brand new to this so I don't know how to design my own stl file yet.

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/166583

This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...

This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.

Good afternoon

This question has probably been asked thousands of times already, but still

I have Neptune4Pro, I would like to change the hotend to Volcano and install a 3x5015 airflow

Is there any guide for green noobs like me, preferably with pictures? I could print model and buy volcano, but how to set things up - big question for me...

Or, if anyone could help, I would write such a guide, photographing and documenting everything during the upgrade process

Seems it is the only model i could find -> https://www.printables.com/model/1294309-neptune-4-35015-printhead-volkano/files

And seems there no remix of such with this one? -> https://www.printables.com/model/905447-sf-3x5015-neptune-4-fan-mod-shroud-optimized-enhan

Thank you very much

Lighter for scale

I wanted to make a gargoyle as a gift, but I couldn't find one that fit my vision. So I turned to some tools for my personal projects.

First of all I generated it using the Qwen-Image model on the AI Horde

Then I used the Hunuan 3D 3.0 model to convert this into a 3D model and finally I printed it on my Bambulab A1 at 300%.

Turned out amazing. Literally no flaws and extremely smooth finish everywhere.

...and I started mini painting again. Mostly board game components. Which meant I needed a paint organizer.

Hey folks,

I was printing a frame with a fresh unopened roll of PETG. I haven't seen this type of thing before. I'm guessing it's because I tried a new (to me) cura setting to move the seam to the corner.

Besides this area, everything came out great.

Any tips on how to get PETG and corner seams to not do this? (Or is the issue unrelated?)

I've spent the last few days trying to get PETG to print on the P1S.

PLA and PLA Pro printed great with no change to settings and just using the default 0.4 nozzle 0.16mm optimized presets in Orca. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/lx7KzRA

PETG, on the other hand, has been a pain in the ass. The preset for PolyLite PETG failed on my first print miserably, so I aborted after the first few layers. I then attempted a flow rate test as it was under extruding, that test was a failure, and continued to fail until I increased the flow rate from 0.95 to 1.197. At this point, I adjusted it per pass 1 and 2 but was still having issues. I printed a temp tower and decided on a 255C first layer with 250C additional layers. Still no dice, so I looked for suggestions on YouTube. Found a guy swearing by increasing the temp to 279C on the P1S. I tried that, went through all filament calibration tests from flow rate, pressure advance, retraction, max flowrate, and VFA. Tests were looking good, so I tried the original failed print once again, and it turned out pretty good other than the underside of the arch. I used Tree (Auto), but that evidently wasn't good enough. The print is functional, and as everything looked good and my next parts didn't have overhangs, I decided to give them a go. These were complete fails and underextruding all around. I imagine the increased temp along with the pauses for movement on this print may have contributed to burning the filament. Examples: https://imgur.com/a/2nOJ7hb

In short, im at my wits end with PETG on this printer, and it's apparently a common issue. I dried for 6 hours at 65C, then kept the filament in a Sunlu S2 at 55C while printing. 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle, 0.16mm Optimal Preset with walls set to "3" and printing order set to "inner/outer/inner", using the stock Textured PEI build plate, PolyLite Grey PETG, P1S on firmware V01.08.00.00, and Orca on v2.3.1.

If anyone can share their PETG settings, im all ears, thanks.

@3dprinting
Hola que tal invito a quien sea a visitar mi perfil de cults 3D:
https://cults3d.com/@ELLOCO01

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

So I atm have a K1 and it just works. No issues printing wise.

I want to start to do multi color prints and was thinking of getting a Prusa Core One with MMU3.

The main reason is I like the slicer and Prusa doesn’t jam ads and coins down my throat whenever I print. I mainly upload my files to the cloud and send it to printer that way. Is this a good idea or should I just get crealitys multi color upgrade?

WWYD ?