So of your dont want to build a very long/tall 3d printer i recommend looking into building a flat long CNC frame for a laser/Plotter. They want to be long and flat, fitting your parts. I build a voron, several cartesians from scratch aswell as a giant laser frame. A Laser frame is much more simple compared to sth as overengineered as a voron(Perfection), far better suited to waste some spare parts with out getting lost in a one year project. Id have loved those rails for my laser.
fufu
joined 2 years ago
Go go russian Propaganda. Vlad is riding unicorns n shit!
there is no issues with humidity
Nooope
Nope
Seems like everyone shouts dry your filament when they have no clue whats going on. This is just a very hard print with a not perfectly calibrated printer. Has nothing to do with filament humidity. Nothing at all. Calibrate & fine tune the printer. The printing communities feedback/advice is getting progressively worse while printing gets more accessible year for year.
This is just plainly wrong
Freedom soap and alot of hot water is all you need. If thats not enough and you havent invaded the bed in weird ways before its probably bad Start code or user error.
Its PEI, powder coated. Everything should stick to it with out any adhesives. Soap?
I habe never used mek, but acetone on abs. Works like a charm.
either have something like KAMP handle your meshing adaptively before every print (takes more time every print, will work even with different bed);
or by having a fixed bed without any adjustable screws/etc., creating a proper bed_mesh (eg bicubic with an amount of probe_count on the higher side) and loading it in your print_start before every print. (will always work aslong as the bed/setup stays the same. Gotta remesh when you change beds)
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This is russian fascist imperialistic propaganda trash, block this fucker