this post was submitted on 28 Sep 2026
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CEL because the previous owner removed the EVAP/carbon canister (what a stupid choice) but engine seems fine otherwise. Transmission is fine though I've heard bad things about the 2002 Subaru transmissions and longevity. 170K miles but that's just typical for my area and is "low" for the age....
I did think of diy aligning it (what tools?). It'd be nice to save even a couple hundred from the total bill. I know one or two people who may help. When it comes to doing my own struts, I have no clue. I can swap a headlight assembly or radio, do an oil change, but not experienced past that.
Edit This Link seems easy enough, definitely accessible tools.
Yep, two wrenches will do it for just aligning the existing. Two so you can break and tighten the nut without twisting the rod. Just make sure you fully understand which way you need to move it, like the article says each car varied (well, it's more where the tie rod is, front or back of the wheel). And move it only a little, it doesn't take very much to make a big difference. A quarter of a turn in or out might be all you need.
However, check the tie rods conditions themselves at the ball joint by the tire. If that's bad, that's certainly your problem, as that introduces lots of movement that shouldn't be there. Replacing it also isn't that hard, but to avoid a full alignment needed you have to try and match the new with the old in length as close s you can, and then are going to have to find where the old one was before the ball joint got bad. So a bit of trial and error and measuring there, more than if you just adjust the old. But it's doable. You're already ahead of a lot of people by knowing how to change your own oil.
I checked out diy struts too via YouTube, and honestly those don't look bad either. It was maybe 10 bolts on and off, plus double checking the torque spec and getting alignment afterwards. Probably would save me a ton of money.
Even if you had to buy some tools it would save vs. the time and labor costs. If you can manage it. If you're doing it in a parking lot, then you're a bit more limited. But I replaced even the lower arms of my car (almost 300k now) a while back, and I only had to buy a large torque wrench to make sure it was on well. But I had a covering parting spot and some time... so, it depends.
Always buy the full assembled of parts, not just bushings or other joints.