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Issue #28 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we announce the Mac n' Cheese v3.1 beta, check out AWCY's new printed HiPoint, review Black Lotus betas and celebrate a legal victory in VA. Read more at: guncaddigest.com

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Bullpup your bufferless AR, anon

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I bought a Trigger Kicker from Hoffman Tactical. I bought it to financially support (in a small way) Tim's legal defense.

I have no intention of ever using it.

FRTs are cool. And the selectable FRTs are AMAZING. Non-selectable has its place, I'm sure, but it probably isn't in my collection.

I will continue to use homemade Super Safeties in my AR compatible builds. If/when the litigation concludes and Tim is able to sell the Super Safety again, he'll be getting my money.

Has anyone else bought the Trigger Kicker with no intention of using it?

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Breek blast shields are back (forum.guncadindex.com)
submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by kaewon@forum.guncadindex.com to c/general@forum.guncadindex.com
 
 

https://midstatefirearms.com/?s=breek+arms&post_type=product

Otx also has clones sold there too. This is from the breek arms email newsletter. It doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere else yet.

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This version greatly increases reliability and decreases the severity of OOB detonations (Still a beta). It also includes a 2-position and a 3-position version. DIY metal version coming soonish.

https://odysee.com/@ToadLicker556:d/The-Twitch-V3.0-Beta:4

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Just got done rough fitting the rails the bolt ride on for a 2077 build after getting an intact barrel cetme kit. I'd previously bought a cetme kit with no barrel, had it mostly fitted to the rails but couldn't go any further cause I didn't have a good enough drill press to handle the barrel pin notch so I stopped there. The old kit also had too much material removed in the mag well cut but this second kit fits the recess in the printed receiver as if made for each other. Now just to order the weldless strut items and I think I should be able to finish up with what I already have. It's already lined up well enough it can cycle into battery with no receiver pins if you don't flex it.

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homemade smokeless powder tutorial (forum.guncadindex.com)
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by cailleach@forum.guncadindex.com to c/general@forum.guncadindex.com
 
 

if for whatever reason you want to make your own smokeless powder propellant instead of using the hilti loophole, i wrote a guide on making it from scratch. if you're careful, follow all of the instructions in it and just have common sense, you won't get hurt. this is fully legal in the us so i'm not violating any rules

here's the gitlab link (i couldn't upload to odysee because of opsec reasons): https://gitlab.com/disposableaccount/double-based-powder

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Issue #29 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we celebrate the .22LR beltfed entering open beta, review an upcoming DIY Tommy gun, check out new pistols from BLC and share a Glock survey. Read more at https://guncaddigest.com/

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Just sharing something I’ve built awhile back. Pimbleton g19 frame printed in pa612 from Polymaker. Has a frt trigger named the “Flart” that has held up really good and needed no tuning. Shot 100rds out of it on the 4th of July and had a blast!

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I don't know what I am doing wrong. I dryed out the pa6-cf filament for the recomended time in a Sunlu E2 dryer, kept it dry feeding it to a P1S printer with a hardened steel hotend, used the 300BLKFDE PA6-CF Settings exactly, and YET my prints still come out looking like a rough stringy mess. I really don't know what else to do, so if anyone else has gotten past this issue, please let me know how to get better prints.

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I've been sitting on some mods, remixes, and accessories that I'd like to release, but I have a few questions before I get them out. My first question is what steps need to be taken to sanitize my release files? I have a mix of FCStd, STEP, 3MF/STL, JPG/PNG, and PDF files that I would like to include but am unsure what kinds of PII they retain and how to remove it. If anyone knows some best practices for sanitizing these (and recommendations for what software to use), it would be greatly appreciated. Secondly, is there anything I should keep in mind when publishing to Odysee? Is there any risk of the email used to create the channel being exposed (do I need a burner address)? Hoping some of these answers can help others as well.

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Has this website been ruined? Why is the entire place spammed and filled with privacy, piracy, security and other topics? It's simply drowning-out 3d2a-related posts and is a major turn-off for me. Disappointing, really. Hope that a staff member sees this and can understand where I'm coming from.

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Sphynx_V1 - Hammer super stiff? (forum.guncadindex.com)
submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by elias52@forum.guncadindex.com to c/general@forum.guncadindex.com
 
 

Does anyone have any advice on fixing an incredibly stiff hammer on a Sphynx_V1 frame? All other parts installed fine, and the hammer isn't stiff until I install the lanyard onto the spring. That installation is super stiff and requires me to lever the frame against a table to get the lanyard lined up with the pin hole. Any advice from people that have built these? I took a round file to the hole where the lanyard goes in to ensure it moves smooth without any binding, but still no success. Everything else appears to function as expected.

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I've been starting work on a couple 15mm launcher projects but can't seem to find any specifications to help with design. The biggest thing I'm missing at the moment is the twist rate for the rifling. I could technically just use booleans from existing releases but would much rather have some more control over the geometry. Anyone have the specs?

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I'd like to evolve from PLA+ to PA6-CF. Before I do so, I have some questions I'm hoping some of you that have experience can shed some light on.

My current plan layout is as follows-

  • Upgrade 0.4 P1S nozzle and gears to hardened steel
  • Change build plate to darkmoon carbon fiber build plate
  • Purchase Sovol SH03 to dry filament at 85C for as long as needed

Past this point I begin scratching my head. What exactly should I do next? Not too experienced with dryers, but I imagine I would need some adapter to connect a second PTFE tube from the dryer to the P1S PTFE tube that sticks out of the back, right? Finally, do I run the dryer while printing? Or do I just use desiccant packets in the dryer to maintain low humidity and print with it off?

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Nothing shows up with a google seach.. So I guess GAFS went 'underground'

If so, which chat network can it be found ?

Thanks!

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Documentation file complete. Going to test it and then if it works send it off to sail. Uses two spring loaded plungers installed into the side of the receiver using JB Weld'd threaded inserts. Any one see why this might not work?

-- sleepy echidna

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I know my shit, but I’m curious what others are using. I pretty much stick to 300blks settings except I change the temp and I change the inner wall to.4 and the sparse infill to .8 and hit “alternate extra wall” to for a ghetto brick layer effect. Feel free to share your mods or preferences etc

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Bolt as a barrel... (forum.guncadindex.com)
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by sleepyechidna@forum.guncadindex.com to c/general@forum.guncadindex.com
 
 

Idea is to use an M16 bolt as a barrel -- highly accessible barrel with good op-sec. I was going to call it M16-22... but I just saw on Reddit there is a Beta exploring the same idea (Nutty Hoe by Black Lotus Coalition)... project is in better hands with Black Lotus

My approach: M16 bolt, drilled through using small guiding bushing and 5mm bit, ECM'd for boring, chamber, and rifling. Attached to Harlot v3 with a modified barrel block. Barrel is removable by unscrewing a cap on the muzzle end. Suppressor easily fitted thanks to the threads.

Lessons:

  • 4.5mm bit might be better (more opportunity for boring to remove drill marks)
  • jigs to drill from both sides more effective, gives a visual guide if the hole is straight
  • rifling mandrel -- level of detail hard to achieve with 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 nozzle would be easier but becomes another BOM

Wonder if a HUGE bolt could hold the pressure of 9mm... the pipe is the most inaccessible component of 9mm builds???

-- SleepyEchidna

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FTN.5 T-shirt/Poster design

Now a vector so it's scalable, now thicker lines so they actually print on shirts correctly, now without ASCII text.

Design by me. You can find the full description and vector quality on Odysee at odysee.com/FTN5Shirt

Edit it, sell it, do whatever. Crosspost to Reddit for me tysm

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Hi there, wondering if there’s any other Canuckistanians out there that can shed some light on what builds are able to be completed here (not asking about what’s legal but what’s possible). would love to know what everyone else is making and, importantly, how much the total cost was. it’s looking like any kind of glock or ar15 would come in near $1k, and then there’s the possibility that you’re buying stuff from UC horsey police that’ll drop by to “inspect your firearms” a week later.

can’t defend ourselves but hey at least the hospital visit is free after the criminals out on bail for the ninth time bust into your house and beat you half to death, so, silver linings and whatnot…

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I've been searching for a STL file for a muzzle standoff device that would be compatible with a Ruger RXM. Something close to the device designed by Proof Mark. https://www.proofmarkllc.com/shop/muzzle-stand-off-device-msd-g19 . If someone could point me in the right direction it would be highly appreciated. While I've found several in the usual places, they will not work. I found one that sort of works. The original, while it does fit the rail section and aligns to the accessory rail slot, does not extend the full length of the dust cover. This will majorly complicate making a holster for this combination. Speaking from experience here. I've made several major modifications to the design that I've downloaded. It will fit the rail section and lines up with the accessory rail slot. The design has been strengthened in all major load bearing areas. However, lacking the proper measurement tools I'm not sure of the exact length of the beginning of the dust cover to the trigger guard area. I'll be upfront, I'm a noob on CAD Software. If any one is interested in possibly assisting in this project I'll gladly upload both the original design and some of my better remixes from FreeCAD to odysee.

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Issue #27 of the Guncad Digest is live! This newsletter rounds up the most interesting 3D2A releases, betas and news.

In this issue we review Hoffman's new trigger, check out a new printed MP5, investigate a printed MP5 and celebrate the FossMG9 being added to World of Guns! Check it out at https://guncad.substack.com/

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heres a step file for the brace rail for the invader/marauder. there wasnt one in the files, and couldnt find one online so i drew one up, works with send cut send

link https://odysee.com/invader-brace-stock-rails-for-3mm-tap-steo:7

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Hello guys i am looking for cnc files for a fgc9 bolt(bufferless) and firing pin if someone could help me with this i would be grateful

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