FOSSCAD

Figured I would share here in an effort to help keep this place alive. I’ve been developing an frt for the m249s. It’s still very much experimental but it works on my pre recall rifle and so far one other person with a current gen rifle has it working. The files and more info are sailing with a captain named 249Junkie. Good luck and share your results!

Awesome build, highly recommended

Few more pics https://imgur.com/gallery/tpr-esHxZor

Added a small shelf inside the frame to keep contact with the axial locking spring. The original frame had a sizable gap between the locking block and frame, causing the locking spring to pop out of place during field stripping. All credit to herzandherz and dbfirearms for this awesome frame.

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/186576

I recently came across a M5 SQUARE NUT and was wondering would that work better if someone created a Ubar 3 with it? Demonstration photo below

What 9mm design out there is the best for sound suppression especially with 147gr subs. This would be for use on a CZ scorpion

Looks like a fun project :)

I just built a SL 9 and took it for its first shots yesterday. I can get like 2 or 3 shots off and then the trigger has problems resetting, and you have to pull the trigger 2 or 3 times to get the next shot off. It doesn't have the problem when dry firing. I tried lining up the trigger springs and disconnect spring but that didn't help. Could it be the bolt carrier or something like that?

All Australian states and territories ban 3D guns, but only some jurisdictions like New South Wales, Western Australia and Tasmania make it an offence to possess blueprints.

Experts are calling for retailers to play a greater role in choking the supply of 3D-printed guns in the wake of the Bondi shooting

Gun control groups are pushing for more laws that ban the importation of 3D printers if they do not have pre-installed software blocking firearm parts from being manufactured

Retailers offering 3D printers or 3D printing services would report customers suspected of building 3D-printed guns to the authorities under fresh calls for corporate Australia to play a role in thwarting access to the deadly weapons

Shooting this will never get old.

I modified one of the printed SuperSafety trips (debo's version) so the dwell time is basically 0. I've estimated it at 1200RPM based on slow-mo video. (20 rounds per second)

I also printed my bolt weight, and filled it with tungsten powder. This works surprisingly well, I cant see ANY bolt bounce in slow-mo.

Most of it is printed in PA12-CF some in PLA+ (like the brace)

I used to have so many issues with my barrel nuts softening when I used to shoot binary. This PA12-CF is taking repeated mag dumps like a champ. over 1k rounds through this exact configuration.

Printing a SME for sound mitigation too.

I checked AI about the exact legality, it said not only is it good to go unregistered, it is a "living museum of the inadequacies of the ATF" :)

Brace, not stock.
SME, not suppressor.
AFG, not VFG.
SuperSafe, not FA.

I'm going to keep this short since there's a ReadMe in the files, which you should DEFINITELY read all the way through before printing, should you choose to print this.

WARNING Have had consistent OOB Detonations. Nothing's broken, and none of the 9mm casings have blown out, but be wary. Read the ReadMe for more info.

I was originally planning on tabling this project since it's not completely finished yet, and I'm going to be busy with college, but some expressed interest in continuing it for me, so I decided to release it as a Beta. Plus, people will be able to test it out with different Mac platforms, which I'm hoping it will be compatible with. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. And if anyone tries this with their mac, I'd greatly appreciate feedback.

Remember to be stupid, safely. -ToadLicker556

The other day, I conducted my first live-fire test of the MPA Defender FRT I designed. Unfortunately, it seems to have a couple of issues.

1. I've been having consistent OOB detonations (photos shown at end of video). Nothing has been damaged as a result of the 98 rounds I tested with, and none of the casings I looked at had blowouts. However, it's still concerning, and I'm not sure if I could release it like this in good conscience.
2. The FRT wears out way too quickly. The first one lasted about 47 rounds, and the second 51 rounds (in Polymaker PLA pro).

To stop it from wearing out, I've been pondering some ideas for cutting out the part that touches the bolt from a metal blank and screwing it on, and have tinkered with making some printed jigs for cutting said part. I've also considered printing it out of a stronger filament like PA612-CF or PA6-CF, but I'm unsure if these would work well.

To stop the OOB detonations. I have no clue what to do.

Another hurdle is that I have just started another college semester, and things have picked up a lot, so I won't be able to work on it till it's done in about 16 weeks. So I do have to postpone its release to an unknown time, I do apologize.

Stay safe, stay free, Toadlicker556

I've reprinted this several times and still get the same result. I use the printing instruction to the 'T'. I'm just trying to get a gauge if this is normal with this print and to just rock it or toss it. Everything looks good except the upper surface

Been looking into getting started and ive got a taurus i can use to test printer settings and get them tuned in. Any models?

I am having a devil of a time trying to get this damn thing to print. Any advice is appreciated. Most of the issues seem to be around the supports and I just can't find a good position for it to print. Settings are posted below

I’m posting today because I have a curious question. What’s the difference between Avaies rails and P80 rails?

I like the DD12.19 designs and not much of the freema glocks but I have p80 parts already at home and was wondering if I can whip a build up real quick but noticed that P80 rails are ether to wide and not curved enough to sit on the shelf that the DD12.19 frames have or is there a way to convert the P80 rails to fit like filing them down or cutting off extra material

I just dropped my first beta releases. Left Side Charging, Right Side Eject Galileo R2 Remix (GR3X); including a takedown version based on the original Galileo takedown and my GR3X (GR3X-T) and I designed an Integrally Suppressed Proto Barrel with a few replaceable cores (Proto-IS).

I love the Galileo R2. I feel it was a near-perfect design. However, I always felt it was missing left side charging ergos to bring it into the 21st century for us right-handed 10/22 lovers.

I also had a takedown Proto Barrel collecting dust from an old build and wanted to be able to use it in something more modern.

...and yanno, DIY barrels and Intregral Suppression is dope AF.

Be wise and play smart.

Hope you enjoy.

Much Love, Mayday

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/174772

pls upload your pics. saw some stupid removed try to charge $40 for this. enjoy

https://odysee.com/@glockSwitch:c/Xanax-Vertical-Foregrip:0

What non printed parts do I need to complete this build I know I need a cmmg 22 lr conversion BCG and protobarrol but is the max upper required for this build ??

Just in case the associated sub-reddit gets closed down.

Where can I get the dxf files for this guy? There’s so many different ones on the odd sea and all the ones I’ve tried all use a small 3mm pin in the middle. I want the 5mm pin one. Thanks in advance!

Hello all, I’m working on an FRT for the MPA Defender (unsure if it will work with other Mac’s). Minimal testing has resulted in success, and I have begun optimizing. No promises on perfection though. I’m working with TinkerCAD, a bent tape measure (yes, calipers are cheap, but I’m cheaper), and a LOT of trial and error, all in the name of losing money faster. I don’t have anywhere close I can live fire test it (except for an unsupervised outdoor range where I was able to sneak a 3 round burst off that went great), so it’s going to be a little bit before I can (but before the 12th because college starts back up). What I want to ask you guys is if anyone would even be interested in this project? And a little bit of licensing advice for someone who knows little. Through my research, I’ve found CC BY-SA 4.0 to be the best license as (to my knowledge) it allows free download, remixing, gives me credit (I’m the one that went through all the filament and time, plus it’s free), gives people the ability to print it or make it from metal and sell it. And prevents people or companies like rare greed from stealing it and claiming it’s theirs and monopolizing it or putting the files behind a paywall. (Yes, I know it’s not anything as big as Hoffman Tacticals Super Safety, but I still don’t want the potential of it getting stolen). Any help or insight would be appreciated!

TLDR I’ve designed an unfinished FRT for the MPA defender. Requires more testing. Asking if anyone is interested. Asking if anybody knows if I should license under CC BY-SA 4.0 to protect against any rare greed type problems.

hello, i recently built a 26 and it functions perfect except the occasional light strike. Ive inspected the channel, make sure its not over lubbed etc. What could my problem be with it that's making it to continue the light strikes? engagement of everything seems right, i test with snapcaps too and it looks like its hitting the back hard.

Hi yall, just moved over here from the reddit, took me a while. I got a MP 2.0 parts kit and went with Wunder9s MP files. (thank you wunder9). At first I was concerned because my only experience is gen 3 glocks so the parts kit having no spring for the slide catch or release was weird but it still functions. The one spring that was missing though was the mag catch spring which is just like glocks (the long slender one). I believe the springs are glued to the frames which is why the kit doesnt have it.

My question is does anyone know where to get a MP 2.0 Mag Catch spring? For now I have a spare glock 19 spring in there which is a bit short but is held in place by tension. Its not functioning the best so I am curious if anyone has advice one a more 'OEM' MP spring