Thanks for pointing that out; I was unaware of that. After educating myself a little, it looks like UV light below about 200nm wavelength generate ozone, but 254nm is the sweet spot for killing microbes. The light I got works at the 254nm wavelength.
The US EPA recommends a concentration of less than 70ppb, Canada 40ppb, and the WHO 30ppb. This model has been tested by the California Air Resources Board at 13ppb.
That’s reassuring, but I’m still looking more into this. Do you have any recommended resources for gaining more insight on ozone generation?
https://www.environics.com/2025/02/17/regulations-ambient-ozone-concentration/
https://www.environics.com/2025/02/17/regulations-ambient-ozone-concentration/
Thank you, that makes sense. I did not realize the air all gets forced through like that.
What do you mean by “ before it splits?” I’m still learning a lot, but the general consensus of where to place the UV light was on the bottom side of the A-frame, because that’s where the moisture will accumulate and allow for bacteria and fungus growth.
I ended up drilling a hole and mounting the light right into that end plate, and then drilling another hole in my new access panel for the cord, and putting duct putty around the hole.
My friend finally got back to me and said the same thing. I guess I learned something about furnace coils. I ended up making a compromise and just mounting the light into that end plate.
I am adding a UV light to my furnace coils. I decided to cut an access panel for easier cleaning and access to the UV light. I did not realize there were these triangular end covers for the A-frame of the furnace evaporator coils.
I don’t see them anywhere online when looking up diagrams of furnace coils. When I search online, it is also not clear if these covers are necessary. Are these covers beneficial? Or can I take one side off to fit the UV light underneath the A-frame?
Would you say the red line leaf is worth trying to save with the rest of the sad roots it has now?
I’ll try making those cuts and post a follow-up on how it works out. I’ll probably keep the blue and purple together like you said, but drop the purple if it struggles.
https://i.postimg.cc/65Xn3Fwj/IMG-3581.jpg
Here are the clippings. One more question I guess, do the tops of the clippings’ stems need to be sticking out of the water or is it okay that they are submerged while in water to grow roots? They are just so short, but I suppose I could use bread ties to hold them in position.
https://i.postimg.cc/jSnG8pgk/IMG-3578.jpg
Okay so what would you consider a good leaf? I drew lines where I guessed might be good to cut above. The red on is big and not completely yellow, the blue and purple ones look good but are somewhat close together. The purple one has a root nodule opposite of the leaf/stem connection and one more below it, opposite of the bad leaf I would prune below it, so it would have two nodules, but would it just be better to put the purple and blue together one one cutting? The orange one also has one node opposite and one node below it.
https://i.postimg.cc/kgRkj0YP/IMG-3579.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/GmTZMWg1/IMG-3580.jpg
Here is the other one I put in water right away and is doing better. How much do you let the roots grow before putting it in soil? And would you recommend changing the water every 1-2 days? It’s hard to know what advice to listen to.
Thanks for the in-depth reply. I put it in some water and out of the direct sunlight. How can you tell if there is root rot? I’m guessing the moisture control soil must be the kind that retains, because I havent watered it for a few days but it feels slightly damp.
How can I tell if there is enough root to support the plant? And if I trim it back to a leaf node, do I include a leaf?
Here are some pictures of the root and leaf node: https://i.postimg.cc/CLKyzxD2/IMG-3572.jpg
A few days ago. I’m trying not to do too much at once but I don’t want to wait if it needs a change. The person I got it from said to just try the roots in a glass of water for a few days and then transfer to soil with not too much water if it looks better.
https://i.postimg.cc/pTQLbmWq/IMG-3529.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/rmGwXDVx/IMG-3530.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/qRcvVNJ1/IMG-3531.jpg
I recently transplanted this vine and it seems to be struggling. This one had roots to start with, so should I put it in water first for a few days or straight into soil?
From what I have read, it does not need too much water and in fact should not be overwatered. I also saw that it does not prefer direct sunlight. The yellow on the leaves closer to the roots can mean overwatered but yellow in all leaves can mean malnourished. I pur it in new “moisture control” potting soil.
The burnt leaves can mean too much direct sunlight, so I moved it to a bookshelf away from the window, but that didnt seem like enough light.
I’m kind of at a loss here. Do I need to do something different or just give it time to heal from transplanting? Any insight is appreciated.
Yeah, I agree with that philosophy. Like someone else said, there are many ways to go about security. I guess I’m just looking for leads on what others have seen as worthwhile, and then try to understand those before I do them.
In his book “Why We Sleep,” Mathew Walker explained that Alzheimer’s detection via EEG monitoring during sleep was a major reason he decided to switch to studying sleep 20 years ago. He was trying to originally study diseases like Alzheimer’s and found that there was not much information on why identification on EEG was detectable before symptoms occurred, such as forgetting items’s locations.
I wonder if this is along the same lines, like a wider variety of EEG signal detection, clearer or more accurate diagnosis, or something entirely different. It looks like subjects were still awake but in a restful state, so maybe testing also does not require as much time as a full sleep study.
Thanks for the thorough response. That makes sense to not reinvent the wheel for syncing and keeping things simple. And yeah, I suppose using the same Task Pony instance would work for sharing.
Thanks again for making something useful and free for the world.
Huh, I hadn’t thought about turning the light on for short periods. And if ozone is mostly generated with moving air, then turning the light on with the furnace off seems to be safest. Thanks for the suggestion.