chippydingo

joined 6 months ago
[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 9 points 1 week ago (4 children)

If you combine that rule with the ability to endlessly stack Draw 2 or Draw 4 cards, you have what I think may be the most evil version of Uno that can be played. We called it Thermo-Nuclear Uno (i.e. Mutually Assured Destruction) since you knew that dropping a Draw 4 would almost certainly lead to someone being buried in cards and it might even be you. Even if you manage to dodge the stack, payback is coming and you won't get lucky every time. I can remember games that we would finally just quit after an hour since no one would ever be able lay down their last card. Merging two decks can make this even more brutal and cuts down on interplay shuffles too.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 12 points 1 week ago

Plotting to murder babies obviously. Post-birth abortions are a thing according to Fox News...no /s

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 2 points 2 weeks ago

Thank you kind stranger, I did not know about that command and will try it out. I typically avoid alt-tab with fullscreen in games for this reason and have to force quit the applications since the screen will be frozen.

I still tend to see an issue with setting up resolution and window settings on new games where the screen will stop refreshing once I commit the change and then I have to close the application and restart it to continue. I guess I could stick with windowed but it was my understanding that variable refresh rate only really works in full screen mode.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 6 points 1 month ago (2 children)

I think you may be forgetting the fact that they tend to just shoot people. I can't imagine shooting someone in the back is out of bounds for this fine bunch.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Too right. I got pushed out of the Windows ecosystem by the forced obsolescence of Win10 and after dabbling with an older version of Ubuntu in the past and iOS, Cinnamon felt like I was hanging on to what I was trying to leave. GNOME just worked for me functionally and aesthetically. I use Win11 at work and hate every minute of it.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

It was at least on the version I tried and it was super annoying trying to figure out why it wouldn't detect my GPU which was an RX 9060XT and not supported by the default Linux Kernel. Once I upgraded the Kernel, that got my AMDGPU stuff working but I could not overcome other graphics issues like persistent tearing (even with V-sync).

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 10 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) (7 children)

This is the exact same reason I ultimately gave up on Linux Mint and switched to Fedora. I could not get rid of tearing and I fragged X11 (and made my OS un-bootable) on multiple occasions trying to fix it using recommended tweaks to config files. It was looking like a Wayland based solution was what I needed so I chose to move on.

GNOME haters can just put away their knives since I am no fan boy; I just wanted to completely escape anything resembling a MicroSlop experience and Workstation gave me a clean DE, more current package releases, HDR, Variable refresh rate , and solid gaming performance with a minimal amount of fuss. CachyOS was next on my list if Fedora didn't work and I am still considering trying it out someday. That said, there is no question that making the switch to Linux as a new user can be daunting and I would still suggest Mint for older hardware with less of a gaming focus.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 3 points 1 month ago

I decided to try the demo for "Zero Parades" just because it sounded interesting and I thoroughly enjoyed Disco. I think the download time was longer than my playtime and I ultimately uninstalled it since the demo provided an experience that is visually similar to Disco but I lost all desire to play it after a few minutes of shit voice acting and weird new game mechanics that made no sense to me. I am keeping an eye on a few other projects from the original Disco devs such as Tangerine Antarctic so here is hoping one of them puts together a worthwhile game with a new spin on this style. I have to recommend Esoteric Ebb for anyone who was a fan of Disco and wants that kind of experience in a more traditional fantasy setting. I made it to Election day and have a bit of final stuff to do and I will be looking for another game but this has been every bit as good as Disco in my opinion.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 1 points 2 months ago

Thank you for the detailed response. It will be good to have this information available if the need ever arises to necessitate updating the firmware for a more critical issue or feature. That said, I think I will accept the cautions and hold off on taking this action for now.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 0 points 2 months ago

I don't "need" to really...just noticed that there is a newer version with added functionality and was curious about the process since I had never done it before. I have been using basic keyboards like membrane and chichlet styles but I have been interested in getting a mechanical model for a long time. Finally decided to go for it after having to reset my 13 year old MS curve for the 3rd time this week in order to log into my computer.

So this also purges one more element of the despicable microslop ecosystem from my life and gives me what is shaping up to be a better typing experience as well. Based on the feedback, it looks like I should just hold off on making any changes until something more groundbreaking or critical needs to be done to my keeb.

 

As noted in the title, I am trying to figure out the safest way to update the firmware on my recently purchased Keychron K1 QMK V6 keyboard. I was finally able to get the web based Keychron Launcher app to talk to my KB after using chmod to give the correct HIDRAW device read-write access but it looks like the new firmware needs another utility to be installed and only the Windoze directions are provided.

From my own online research it looks like there is a terminal-based method but it wasn't really explained. I am not super concerned about updating the firmware since the preloaded version works well enough for my needs but I am still wondering if anyone knew of a tutorial on how to do this without bricking my shiny new keyboard.

I am using Fedora 43 Workstation if that makes any difference. Thanks in advance for any tips or advice!

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 3 points 2 months ago (1 children)

You bring up another important positive for the instant pot: when I wash the rice, I tend to scrub hand-fulls between my fingers under running water and swirl it around as the bowl fills. Since the inner pot is stainless steel, I am not worried about damaging a non-stick coating like you tend to see on other rice cookers. Additionally, once the cooking cycle is complete, I have learned that letting the pressure drop over a period of about 10 mins before venting helps release the rice from the bottom of the inner bowl so sticking isn't really a problem and I never get any burnt rice either.

The one thing I am not sure about is how well the rice would keep if it is left on warm all day like you describe for households that make a large batch for multiple meals. I typically make just enough for the meal at hand and some leftovers for fried rice later so I suppose the instant pot serves it purpose well but it may not be the solution for everyone.

[–] chippydingo@lemmy.world 4 points 2 months ago (3 children)

This is really interesting regarding the extra water and I suppose it makes sense with the more basic models that have a vent hole. I have been using an Instant Pot for a bunch of years now and have a custom pressure cooking setting that gives me fluffy and perfect brown rice using water at a 1:1 ratio. I believe the cook time must be slightly longer than the white rice setting(default button). 21 mins and about 10 mins to cooldown before venting gets perfect results 100% of the time.
I have been tempted to invest in a more traditional cooker like a Zojirushi thanks in large part to "Uncle Roger" but paid $45 for the Instant Pot and I don't really use it for anything else.

 

I need some advice: I have a system that refuses to run without memory errors and the resulting file corruption has forced me to start replacing components until I get the advertised/expected performance. In this case, the DDR4-3600 (CL18) RAM I purchased cannot get through Memtest86 (Test7) without a ton of address errors.

Setup1 Ryzen 5 5600X (OEM tray CPU) MSI B550M PRO VC WIFI: BIOS is dated 9/25/25 KLEVV DDR4-3600 (CL18) : QVL certification confirmed Using the XMP profile 1 option (CL 18-20-20-40, 1.35VDC)

After loading Fedora 43 Workstation and seeing some odd pauses I tried to install Steam and this is when I realized I had some data corruption going via the Terminal stream. Immediately researched and tried to dial down the speed to see if my CPU's memory controller just couldn't handle the 3600 speed. Tried 3200 and adjusted the timings down to a standard set that were more appropriate for that speed but then I just got Memtest errors almost immediately (Test 2, 3, 4) so I manually aborted the test. However, if I default back to the auto timings (DDR4-2667 @ 1.20VDC), the whole system passes all of the tests and runs perfectly fine.

As a result I performed the following action: Replaced the Memory sticks with 2 of the same type. No change in test results at either speed.

Online research suggested the CPU/memory controller was most likely the cause so I replaced the CPU with a newer (retail) version and B2 stepping in the hopes it would perform better (see setup 2 below)

Setup2 Replaced the CPU with a Ryzen 5 5600XT (Retail Box CPU) MSI B550M PRO VC WIFI (same Mobo) Used the replacement set of KLEVV DDR4-3600 (CL18) Using the XMP profile 1 option (CL 18-20-20-40, 1.35VDC)

Results were exactly the same with Test 7 being the failure point using the XMP profile and only the default settings (2667 M/T and auto timings) worked with no issues. I also tried other DDR speeds like 3400, 3200, and 3000 with suggested relaxed timings appropriate for each speed and a voltage boost to 1.35 VDC. Tweaking the RAM voltage up didn't seem to make any difference.

Apologies for the long read so far but now I am at a crossroads with this machine. I have tightened up the DRAM timings to (CL14-16-16-32) at 2667M/T and 1.20VDC and it runs error free and passes Memtest and stress-ng tests in the OS. I have also been able to get really decent gaming performance and no more corrupted files or random crashing using Steam.

So it doesn't seem to be the CPU or the RAM and the voltages seem OK from the PSU. Should I tear the whole thing apart and replace the motherboard or just stick with what I have since it works (albeit at a lower speed than advertised)? This is one build that has really stumped me. Thanks for reading.

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