diyelectronics

What would be the best way to do this? I have made a 16s li-ion battery system and would like to build an inverter myself as well. For that I will be using an EGS002 module and according to the datasheet that requires a 400V DC source which will be converted into a sinus-ish waveform using sPWM.

I also see circuits online from dubious sources such as instructables that claim you can also apply the sPWM signal to 12 or 24V and then run that through a transformer for the same result. This is not in the datasheet, but does it work? This sounds like an easier setup. With my battery it would require a different transformer ratio.

Since I'm using a 16s battery the voltage will be in between 48V at its lowest and 64V at its highest. The feedback should be able to compensate for this.

As for transformers, I have a few 1:9 (European) microwave transformers, it would be nice if those could be used for this project as they're more than capable of big loads.

Ideally I would like to build an inverter that can provide 2000W of power, perhaps more. The whole idea behind the battery/inverter system is being able to power household objects when the power goes out. The ultimate goal is to troll my neighbors in that once in 5 year event.

Of course there is the commercial option, which I might use, but I want to learn how they work as well.

I am trying to get a solenoid water valve to work with my raspberrypi pico and python. The system works with a LED but when I swap the led with the valve, add the diode and switch the power to 5v (external, not pico), the valve does not open. When I use a voltage meter, I can measure a resistance for a short moment when connect to the valve so I suppose it functions?

Below is the schematics (the triangle thing represents the solenoid valve). The diode is a 1N4007

The valve has a pulse with of 30ms at 5V so I programmed a PWM to open 30ms and then 200ms (I tried to follow this tutorial: https://learn.adafruit.com/use-dc-stepper-servo-motor-solenoid-rp2040-pico/solenoids )

Am I missing something?

Clearly I'm using the wrong motor, I though I had calculated it out but apparently when it's under load (the mobile part) it heats up to the point that it melted the hot glue holding it in place. Not great, how do I rectify this?

Video of the motor working

Here's the assembly, that's a three AA battery pack

All parts in question Button, Battery pack, Motor

If anyone has any idea of what motor could handle this or what math I'm not calculating for I would really appreciate it

So I've gone through a few variations of this, those three double A's are up putting 4.5 volts and this new motor is just about that and a little stronger than that smaller one. That was my previous motor that you see in the back. It's working pretty well when I have the cat toy on there. It's going pretty steady and I'm not getting too much heat from the motor like last time, though the battery rail on the back of that casing heats up quite a bit. Do battery rails usually heat up this much and I just don't see it because they're not usually exposed.?

I let it run for a bit just to see how bad it would get and it's not damaging the plastic or anything. It's just pretty hot. How much of a concern do you think this should be? Keep in mind this is going inside of a cat scratching post that is more or less just cardboard so I'd like to iron out any kinks before I install it

Anyone know where to get a brighter bulb for this dinosaur or have an idea for replacing it with LED or something?

I'm having zero luck figuring it out on my own.

It's an LW Scientific, model: Achiever

Hi,

I'm looking a way to make or buy an intercom system between room in the same house. That works more or less like a Walkie-talkie but wired on the local LAN .

With the following "requirements"

• only voice
• push to talk ( do not need to dial )
• broadcast the voice too all receiver
• AC-powered
• work on the local Lan (Ethernet)

If you know any device that does that or a clever way to DIY or even an android app (LAN only)
I'm all ears.

Thanks

Title pretty much says it all. I'm trying to find a current limiting ballast for a solid state tesla coil, and this has the right size and current draw, but I'd like to eliminate the motor screaming, if possible.

Thoughts?

I'm using an instructable as reference for a project and it says to use anything available that draws 5-10A as a ballast. Examples were a hair dryer, I thin toaster, and also an incandescent bulb as a test article.

I don't quite understand include any of those things in the circuit. Is it as simple as ripping the guts or if a hair dryer to get to the heating element and writing it in with the exposed leads?

Any general information on ballasts that aren't for florescent lighting would be very helpful

So the lone LED in the middle, with two resistors, is going to be on all the time, as a night light to the night light.

If the rest of the LEDs are on a switch, will I have to run two completely separate wires for the single LED, isolating it on its own circuit?

I'm tentatively planning on doing that, using heat shrink or something like that to tidy up the wires, then use two DC barrel jacks to connect each set of wires to the board. Are there any potential problems with this plan?

So after doing some analysis of human factors (asked my lovely wife what she prefers), I decided to ditch the PIR sensor and just go with a switch. This is just the current state of the board, I'm gonna rip apart an old router to get the barrel jack, then put this thing in an enclosure of some sort and call it day.

I'm also putting one LED with I think a 3k resistor that'll be on all the time as a night light to the night light, so you can find the switch

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/18530232

Hi,

I would like to build myself a DIY DVR

Here what I'm targeting

1. The software is FLOSS

2. Have a community/free/gratis version that can handle >= 16 cameras and it's usable (meaning not crazy restricted)
   or
   is paying, but not crazy scheme (like subscription etc..) So you pay once, and you can use that version forever for unlimited number of cameras.

3. Lightweight on resources ( can run on a Single-board computer )

4. Can handle Hardware compression.

5. Can handle Passthrough recording (IP camera)

6. Have a HTTP server User interface.

7. Can record audio, when the camera provide it.

8. Motion detection (possible to enable at certain times)

9. extra: Written in Python

10. can record in H265

Thanks.

If you have any reference or any good (recent) article I'm all ears :)

But if I want the LEDs to actually be bright, I probably need to use the sensor to activate a relay, right?

I know this is basic as shit, but I'm having a blast

Update: first trial with the planned number of LEDs and pillow stuffing, looks fantastic!

I've got the appropriate amount of light for my microscope ring light, but now I need to put it all in an enclosure of some sort.

If I don't have a custom board to solder these to, what are my best options for connecting these she mounting them into something?

If this is too vague, please let me know if I can clarify

I got a microscope at auction a few weeks ago for a great price, only issue is the lights are super dim.

I decided to make some supplementary lighting for it, this was my first little proof-of-concept, to show myself that all the formulas I learned back in physics really work and that I can put together simple stuff without destroying any components, and while understanding what I'm doing.

Next will be to rerun the numbers with 5V from a wall wart, then maybe start working on a housing for everything. It's been years since I tinkered with electronics and I forgot how much fun it is, I'm having a blast!

That's about all really, I'm super excited about baby's first breadboard and I'm just happy to be here!

Also, if anyone sees something that is a safety hazard, please let me know

Also also: Technically these aren't the correct resistors, they're allowing ~26 milliamps across the LEDs, when they're rated for 20, but I'm here for a good time not a long time

Crossposted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/9698836

This setup allows Arduino to read temperature, control relay based on setpoints, display info on OLED screen, and manage date/time settings with user input through buttons. Adjust based on specific hardware/project requirements.

Designed to replace the faulty electronic control of a blue heat radiator.

Code and simulation at Wokwi

Licensed under GNU GPLv3.

The lower part of my screen is updated one frame earlier than the upper part. I was able to isolate the error to the HDMI output of my laptop. The screen or cable is not broken, as I don't get these errors with other connected devices. I am assuming it is some hardware defect. Does anyone know what it could be and how I could fix it? Here are a few pictures that show the problem: pixelfed

Solved: Ok, it seems to have been a software problem. That had to do with the sync. I have installed ubuntu on the laptop for now and everything works again. Some update seems to have shot something. I am now using a

These are pre-generated labels that can be set up after printing. I provide them for free to download here. If you are in the EU you can also buy them printed on a sheet of adhesive paper.

link is for buying a kit, but i see they also have opensource kicad/step files on the page for the ability to diy

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/432966

I am doing "prior art" research to find out what are reliable and open constructions of sensors (and controlling/recording) platforms used in citizen monitoring of environment.

Due to recent events in Poland, priority topic is river monitoring:

• water temperature,
• pH,
• conductivity,
• dissolved oxygen,
• turbidity,
• ORP (oxidation reduction potential),
• water level (sonar?).

Also, typical weather station sensors recommendations will be appreciated.

If you know about an active group dealing with river environment monitoring, please drop a link here – I will be happy to learn from them.

At this stage, I do not intend to start any deep R&D. I need to learn about good (best!) practices and appropriate hardware, so we can deploy a network of early warning checkpoints as soon and as cheaply as possible.

Onboard-RP2040 | USB-C Type Port | Multiple HAT Connectivity | ESP8266 | 0.91 OLED | 40-Pins GPIO Connectivity | 16 Mega-Bits Flash

"PiSquare an RP2040 & ESP-12E based board, a smart way to use multiple Raspberry Pi HATs without stacking on Raspberry Pi. PiSquare uses Socket programming to communicate Multiple ("n" numbers of HATs) Raspberry Pi HATs wirelessly."

Connecting Multiple Raspberry Pi HATs Wirelessly without Multistaking