Climbing

cross-posted from: https://hexbear.net/post/5841951

Grabbed this retro rack from an old friend who is moving. I'm pretty hyped up metal is metal after all and all these old Hexes and nuts should be excellent (after I replace the 25+ yr old nylon). The rope off to the side... Well maybe it'll be useful to tie something up but no way I'm trusting it. Plus it's thick and heavy as fuck.

Bonus pics of some excellent bits:

spoiler

Old school friends... Need a lil cleaning Classic literature Stricht plates... One of the first actual belay devices. Made in "West Germany" Giant T nut. Back when climbing gear was just chunk of metal you found.

Looking back at our tracks down from Mt Brewster after climbing the South West face

Thinking of dabbling into trad, looking to build out a rack on an as-needed basis.

Climbing here mostly in Southern Ontario, so limestone blocks along the Niagara escarpment.

Some light research suggests I should:

• favour passive pro over cams (slimestone, etc.)
• consider offset nuts

... then the topics seem to always drift into a discussion about the merits of tricams lol

Looking at the dragons in size 2-4 to start.

Am I on the right track?

Also I'm legit afraid of using the #nuts or #rack tags.

The Ahuriri valley, NZ

I was belaying the other day with a BD GridLock Carabiner (see PDF if you're unfamiliar - it's labelled 'D') and a GriGri.

Had an issue that the GriGri worked its way around the carabiner and was pushing against the gate, essentially trying to open it. Now, obviously I did my pre-climbing checks and so the gate was screwed shut, but I was a little concerned anyway. So, I checked out the manual for the GridLock (see PDF) and it says you're meant to put a GriGri the other way around than when using an ATC. So, firstly, just FYI - this is the way Black Diamond say to do it, with the GriGri in the narrow end of the carabiner (that's the 'crotch' rather than the 'basket').

Okay, so far so good. But then I noticed that the same image suggests that you put the GridLock so that the gate is on the same side as the dead rope (right when belaying if you're right handed). I've always done it the other way around, so I was now additionally confused.

But wait! It gets weirder! Black Diamond's manual also suggests that with a standard screwgate biner, the gate should also be on the dead rope side. Now, this can't possibly be right, surely? Because the rope could potentially roll the gate open.

Now I'm baffled. I've always had the screwgate on the left, away from the rope, because it seems natural to do it that way, and having the screwgate on the right (rope side) seems potentially dangerous, but apparently that's how BD, at least, think it should be done! I'd kinda like an answer to this, given that I'm trusting my climbing buddies' lives to these things.

What are /c/climbing's thoughts on this?

A 19 pitch climb in the Cleddau Valley

My partner is about 20% lighter than me, and wants to get a belay resistor. We've used the first version of the Ohm in the past, and didn't like the hard catch. We've had the Raed Zaed recommended, but it looks like the Ohm II might be better again. I know it's only just been released, but does anyone have experience with both? Which would you recommend?

Hrana Velickej steny, a UIAA 5 in the Tatra mountains

A cool feature on the ridge between Slovakia and Poland (UIAA 3)

In Arthur's Pass, New Zealand

I'm a beginner climber and I got Evolv Shamans in my street size a few weeks ago since I read good reviews about them and I got them pretty cheap as they were in the discounted section of my local climbing shop, but only in that size. They've been great at allowing me to stand on small edges and get better height on my toes due to the thick rand, but they hurt like hell to wear, making the benefits I gain from using them somewhat moot, as I'm not able to climb and improve as much as I'd like to.

I've been wearing them around the house in addition to the gym in the hopes of breaking them in quicker (I've had to wear plastic bags on my feet to prevent blisters on my heels and toes from excessive friction) and I noticed they don't really seem to have broken in that much and still hurt my toes a lot (especially the tops of my big toes), so I'd like some recommendations for the next pair that I get.

I have Morton's toe/Greek feet and my feet are probably wider and less-arched than average. I'd like to get a more comfortable pair for long gym sessions, so I think I'd prefer lace-up shoes in the future. I've narrowed my choices down to the Scarpa Veloce L and the Ocún Advancer LU, both of which are lace-up, apparently suited for Greek feet, and are vegan. I'd appreciate some comparisons if people have experience with them, or if you have recommendations for other shoes that might suit my criteria better, please share them too!

https://www.hardestclimbs.com/bouldering/problem/la+r%C3%A9volutionnaire

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/14695902

NEWS: 9b First Ascent for Seb Bouin

Does anyone have any tips for keeping going even when you're finding it hard to get started climbing?

I'd very much appreciate any tips at all.

The traversey third pitch of Indian Summer (18), up at the Remarkables, Queenstown, New Zealand

The route is Book of Hate 5.13d. I don't know Amity Warme (my loss probably) nor the route - this was just such a great video I wanted to share it here. The climb is fantastic, and it's captured magnificently. Music stops just when it needs to, giving full exposure to her breathing and a nice windy background (or is that a road? whatever :) ). If you can spend the 9min, do it, otherwise skip roughly the first 4min to get some slow corner action leading up to the highlight.

Walked up the North Branch of the Routeburn and came back along the tops - Nereus, Somnus, Momus yesterday. Took a solid 14 hours, with nearly 3500m of vert.

Routeburn Carpark - North Col - Nereus - Somnus - Momus - Carkpark